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> Hand Auger Center Point, Has any one tried?
Orangebucket2
Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 08:36 am


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Has anyone tried to put a center point on their hand auger?

I find that moira and similar augers have trouble drilling cloverleaves (overlapping holes) in ice

I made a drill chuck conversion for mine and I love it but I have been thinking about adding a center point because I like to do a cloverleaf when perching shallow water, and I would like to eliminate the spud bar once the ice is thick enough


If so, how did you do it and did it work well? Also did it still function well as a hand auger or did it create too much resistance?

OB

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Bobinette
Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 04:08 pm


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I did ruin my 8” fin bore a few years back buy doing this, but it’s a longer story. Here it goes (so this is the auger with the curved blades):
I tried to sharpen the blades and inadvertently bent the end of the auger that held the blades. After reinstalling the now sharp blades and trying to drill it was wondering all over the ice since only 1 blade was biting, couldn’t start a hole, period. I tried to bend the end back in shape to even them out, with a pair of pliers but no luck at all! Then I had the bright idea to braze a drill into the end of it to steady it (exactly what you are saying), still no luck. Mind you, the center point did steady it, but now it was biting so hard that I couldn’t turn the handle. I believe that the hand augers have to wonder a little in order to be able to turn it. I am a machinist by trade, so I do understand how drills work and how to sharpen them but it’s different when it’s held rigidly in a machine vs. me cranking by hand. Long story short, my 8” auger is in the scrap heap and I now own a 6” mora with a molded plastic head that holds the blades. Couldn’t be happier with it!

Just my experience with it. If you choose to doit, my only suggestion would be to be very careful not to change the angle of the blades, either by heat or by bending, because your auger will be unusable afterwards!

Let us know how you made out with it.
Take care


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BlackCrowe13
Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 05:50 pm


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I have been running into the same issue. I really like cloverleaf style cuts, but have not had much success. I broke one blade drilling overlap, so I figured I’d just cut 4 close and chip out the rest. Checked my auger on my way off the ice last trip out... another broken blade.

I see a bunch of people with overlapping cloverleaf cuts... my question (sorry to hijack)... how do people do overlapping clovers without breaking blades???

I’m just thinking of ordering an ice saw, drill 4 corners and saw the edges.

Lol... another piece of equipment I need to buy! Ughhhhh

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Newburg007
Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 06:48 pm


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Cloverleaf holes? What is the purpose? (Larger landing whole? Sight fishing? Transducer directly over lure?...)
Even with a 6" auger, that's an awfully large hole to be left behind.
I'm just curious here.

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BlackCrowe13
Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 07:02 pm


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I like them for a few reasons.

- Easier for me to get my full sized transducer in and out
- Able to shift around more comfortably without having to keep my rod over a 6 inch hole
- Easier to land fish through and line up their head with the opening
- I like being able to see what’s going on down there without having to hover over a 24” deep porthole

My hut areas are very obvious as I shovel snow all around and clear the ice completely before drilling... in fact I still see where I had my hut weeks after even with all the snow.

I am not cutting a 4ft x 4ft hole... and in reality my attempts at overlapping clovers are likely not larger than a single 10” auger cut.

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Marko
Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 07:11 pm


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Hello, I was wondering how you sharpened the blades, I tried to do it once, but was unsuccessful. How do you do it? What tools do you use? Can somebody who is not a machinist do it successfully?

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Newburg007
Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 07:42 pm


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BC13: When the ice is at the point where I should be using a power auger, I would switch my setup for the reasons you suggested. I just never cut triples (maybe lazier?). When the ice was 6 - 8" thick, I still used two single/separated holes (transducer and fishing); I like the 6" hole for larger fish as you can still turn their heads when the ice is thinner and I'd hold the fish in the hole until it was settled. I cut two holes with thicker ice and spud the centre strip of ice (if still using the hand auger).
I guess it's the same reasoning as your three hole -- and maybe my fish might be just the smaller variety!
Good luck on the water.

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BlackCrowe13
Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 07:51 pm


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QUOTE (Newburg007 @ Feb 13, 2018 - 07:42 pm)
BC13: When the ice is at the point where I should be using a power auger, I would switch my setup for the reasons you suggested. I just never cut triples (maybe lazier?). When the ice was 6 - 8" thick, I still used two single/separated holes (transducer and fishing); I like the 6" hole for larger fish as you can still turn their heads when the ice is thinner and I'd hold the fish in the hole until it was settled. I cut two holes with thicker ice and spud the centre strip of ice (if still using the hand auger).
I guess it's the same reasoning as your three hole -- and maybe my fish might be just the smaller variety!
Good luck on the water.

Lol I need a gas auger... and a spud, and a saw, and a bunch of other things.

I need to win the lottery! Hahahha

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thanh
Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 08:00 pm


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Most of the clean cut cloverleaf or figure 8 holes you see out there are cut with a gas/propane power auger. The majority of them are chipper style blades and all have a center spike to keep the auger from bouncing around unlike a manual auger. When I use to have one, cutting 2,3 or 4 holes connected to each other was a piece of cake. Really tough to do with a manual auger blade even with an electric power drill, but possible.

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BlackCrowe13
Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 08:08 pm


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QUOTE (thanh @ Feb 13, 2018 - 08:00 pm)
Most of the clean cut cloverleaf or figure 8 holes you see out there are cut with a gas/propane power auger. The majority of them are chipper style blades and all have a center spike to keep the auger from bouncing around unlike a manual auger. When I use to have one, cutting 2,3 or 4 holes connected to each other was a piece of cake. Really tough to do with a manual auger blade even with an electric power drill, but possible.

Thanks for the pointer on that one. Next winter I have a gas auger at the top of my list!

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smokeeter
Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 08:14 pm


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why not just get a bigger auger 10"?

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BlackCrowe13
Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 08:18 pm


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QUOTE (smokeeter @ Feb 13, 2018 - 08:14 pm)
why not just get a bigger auger 10"?

Sure, a 10” gas would be great.

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Fish4Dinner
Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 09:10 pm


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QUOTE (BlackCrowe13 @ Feb 13, 2018 - 08:18 pm)
QUOTE (smokeeter @ Feb 13, 2018 - 08:14 pm)
why not just get a bigger auger 10"?

Sure, a 10” gas would be great.

Love that responds!

Hand drilling 10 inch hole will be hell. I remember when I hand auger two 8 inch holes with 7 inches of ice..... I did not want to move even if there was no fish under me all day.

I do manage to cut figure 8 holes with the drill adaptor. Not as nice as when we had the gas auger.

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kingphoenix
Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 10:44 pm


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K drill has a center point

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Icehog
Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 11:01 pm


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My suggestion would be just keep the drill how it is if it's working. Why fix something if it an' t broken.

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