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> Winterizing boats
Flo
Posted: Oct 21, 2018 - 10:08 pm


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Hi guys! I have a 2 year Legend boat and I was looking to winterize the boat however I'm not sure if it's necessary to do so and what the reason for winterizinng the boat is. I appreciate any input and advice

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AlconaKevin
Posted: Oct 22, 2018 - 08:05 am


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For me, i try to empty the storage bins, hang my life jackets and leave all hatches open...mold and mildew.
The motor is a must if you want it to last, change lower gear oil ( SO EASY) and fog the motor.
Is a good time to check and change plugs too.

Put stabilizer in gas to avoid it going bad in the motor hoses.

I also bring in my batteries and plug them into a smart charger now and then.

You want your boat to last man, the benefits are huge.

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Flo
Posted: Oct 22, 2018 - 10:12 am


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Thank you so much I appreciate that

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kevb81
Posted: Oct 22, 2018 - 12:23 pm


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This is my routine (no expert by any means) if a built in tank top up fuel to prevent moisture build up and add fuel stabilizer. If a portable tank I mix up a fogging solution by adding 2 cycle oil, fuel stabilizer and run it threw the engine that way. Change engine oil and filter, change gear oil, grease any fittings. If equipped with livewell and bilge I run rv antifreeze. If unsure there's alot of YouTube videos or can pay for a shop to winterize it. Good luck!

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Iggyw1
Posted: Oct 22, 2018 - 07:25 pm


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I learned the "hard way" why it is important to change the lower end oil this time of year instead of in the springtime. I had an 8 h.p. trolling motor a few years back, and I always changed my lower end gear oil in the spring. Spring came, and the lower end was cracked with a wide open crack because there was water in the oil and it froze & expanded. It was an expensive lesson for sure, but since then, I have changed my lower end gear oil in the fall before the freezing weather starts up. Even if you do have water in the oil, you can change the oil now and repair the leak in the spring of the year, but get the water out NOW.

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AlconaKevin
Posted: Oct 23, 2018 - 05:27 pm


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QUOTE (kevb81 @ Oct 22, 2018 - 12:23 pm)
This is my routine (no expert by any means) if a built in tank top up fuel to prevent moisture build up and add fuel stabilizer. If a portable tank I mix up a fogging solution by adding 2 cycle oil, fuel stabilizer and run it threw the engine that way. Change engine oil and filter, change gear oil, grease any fittings. If equipped with livewell and bilge I run rv antifreeze. If unsure there's alot of YouTube videos or can pay for a shop to winterize it. Good luck!

I am also no expert by far but I do wonder why you dont just fog?

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kevb81
Posted: Oct 23, 2018 - 07:27 pm


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I was told fogging oil can cause issues with efi. I use to use fogging oil on previous motors with no issues

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Live_To_Fish
Posted: Oct 23, 2018 - 08:13 pm


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Hey flo, I have a 1998 Legend V-170 with a 1998 75hp Merc that I've owned for twenty years now. My winterizing routine is.

Put earmuffs on it and let it ŕun with water going to it, while it's warming I take the engine hood off and the plate covering the carburetor, by that time the engine will be plenty warm. Than I take a can of fogging oil, you can use the included straw if you want, but I never do just in case it shoots off into the carb throat, that's just asking for trouble

Take fogging oil and start spraying roughly equil amounts into each carb until it stalls, VOILA, boat is winterized.

Next I take spark plug leads off, remove spark plugs and spray a liberal amount of fogging oil into each of the spark plug holes to lubricate internal parts during storage, screw the plugs back in, attach spark plug wires and turn the key a touch two or three times, not enough to start the engine, just enough to rotate the flywheel to distribute the fogging oil through the motor thus keeping internal parts lubricated during storage.

When it comes to lower unit oil that's basically personal preference, some people do it every year some do it every two. I've heard you should do it every year if you use it a lot but as for me, I usually do it every two, again personal preference, I mean it's not hard or expensive so if your choice is to do it every year than that's totally fine. If all your seals are good and there's no water in your oil than you can probably get by with doing it every two as is my situation, no leaks so I do it every two and it seems to run perfectly fine, but again personal preference.

Been doing it that way for the past twenty years and the motor has never let me down.

Hope this helps.

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Flo
Posted: Oct 23, 2018 - 09:06 pm


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Thank you very much guys

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fish hawk
Posted: Oct 24, 2018 - 07:20 am


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Let me tell you Flo ……even if you have a two year old Legend boat ……..winterizing is VERY important if you want to keep your outboard motor for a long time and good condition .

You can go on GOOGLE and search how to winterize outboard motor.
You can do the winterizing yourself if you don`t want to go to service. But if it`s under warranty ( brand new) it`s recommended have it done by the service at the dealer. After the warranty is over, you do what you want, the manufacturer cannot give you any trouble.
Very important: Do it properly, weather you get two stroke or four stroke.
You must do the followings:
Remove your deep cycle batteries, charge them up 100%, top it up with distilled water ( if need ) and put them away for winter storage.
If you got live well, make sure drain all water, no water left in your valves, solenoids, or anywhere.
Make sure there is NO water left anywhere in your outboard engine and ALL the water is drained out.
Clean the entire boat well , vacuum all carpets ( if you have) and leave the doors slightly open for all the compartments you have, Good air circulation is important.
If you cover the boat with tarp , make sure you got air circulation. ( I built a frame using 2x2 and EMT tubing , strong enough to hold heavy snow on top.) BUT very important to leave some openings on front and back to get good air circulation.
If you got four stroke outboard, change the motor oil and oil filter. ( I use 100% Synthetic oil in my Yamaha 4 stroke outboard)
Change the lower unit oil, and make sure to install NEW washers on the lower unit drain plugs.
Remove the spark plugs, ( you don`t have to install new ones every year) but clean them sandblasting is the best if you can. Check the gap, adjust if needed. Spray little fogging oil on them. Spray ( pour) fogging oil into the cylinders ( follow instructions on the can) , turn engine over a few times and re install spark plugs.
Replace fuel filter, and if you got a Water Separating Fuel Filter ( very important for four strokes ) make sure you replace them .You do not want to get any water in your fuel line if you got four stroke engine.
Fill up your gas tank with FRESH Gas and add Stabil fuel stabilizer also Seafoam ( one of the best on the market) . Run the engine ( garden hose hooked up for cooling) run the engine for few minutes ,,,,,make sure the Seafoam treated gas gets up to the carburetors and into the entire fuel system.

Drain all carburetors with the draining screws, so the bowels are empty not holding any gas .

Now something about the gas used for winter storage. The gasoline starts to separate and break down after 3 months in storage. That is why it`s very important to use stabilizers and additives. BUT also the type of gasoline you are using , the regular gas contains Ethanol (10 %) . Ethanol collects moisture…..BAD stuff…..and could cause a lot of problems in your fuel system and carburetors.
At the beginning I also used regular gas ……..until the next year I was going out fishing at the opener in May for whitefish……my engine almost broke down….I could hardly come back …..and I came home.
I took all 4 carburetors apart ( I am mechanically inclined , working in industrial electrical and mechanical maintenance). When I took the carburetors apart I found a white stuff ( like toothpaste) plugged up the jets in the jet and passages. This stuff was done by Ethanol in the regular gas I used during winter storage. I switched over using Shell V-Power gas because this gas contains NO Ethanol. Yes it cost more , but no more problem at all.
I purchased my boat and the Yamaha 4 stroke in 2001 ( 17 years ago) brand new. I use Shell V-Power gas with additives in the last 15 years and doing my winterizing . I got absolutely NO problem with my Yamaha, starting every time, never let me down since I use the best gasoline on the market.

Look after your stuff and you will enjoy the fishing and don’t have to worry about breakdown out on the water.




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Flo
Posted: Oct 25, 2018 - 09:42 pm


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Hey guys, I just read all of your recommendations. Thank you for all the time you took to give me all the advice on how to winterize my boat! This will be the last week i take my boat out before i decide to put it away for the year. I'll make sure to take everything into account this winter when I winterize the boat especially heading over to Legend to talk to them about the warranty when it comes to winterizing the boat. Thank you again for all the support!

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Bigfishlill
Posted: Oct 26, 2018 - 07:41 pm


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Great detailed report fish hawk, I do all that except carbs. Never thought of draining it but will do it this year. Going to get my boat done this weekend.

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Goshawk
Posted: Oct 26, 2018 - 08:10 pm


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As a side note but related to the winterizing thread.....

I work for a vehicle delivery service and we move cars/trucks/vans around for dealerships. Today, one of my drivers picked up a van in Kitchener to bring to Mississauga. When we started out, he said that the fuel was very low so he would be heading to a gas station. He didn't make it....engine died after 3km. I got 3L of gas and put it into the tank, plenty enough for him to get to the same gas station. Problem...the van refused to start. After pumping the pedal and letting it rest for almost an hour, it finally fired up.
While I was getting the information for roadside assistance (eventually called them off), I noticed that the tank read 1/8 of a tank of fuel. I know 3L of gas won't get it that high. I checked the assembly plate on the chassis and found that it was built in April 2018 and it only had 24km on the clock. This van had been sitting all summer on the lot, probably hardly ever got moved. I immediately thought of phase separation and water build-up at the bottom of the tank. When we got to our destination, I told the service guys to check the fuel tank for water and he called me back a few hours later. Turns out there was almost 2 cups of water in the bottom of the tank, right where the fuel pick-up is located.
So the phase separation thing not only works on boat fuel tanks, but anything using ethanol fuel (regular gas) and it sits for a long period.

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fish hawk
Posted: Oct 27, 2018 - 06:40 pm


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Goshawk………yes it can happen and Ethanol collects moisture, the real marine gas has NO Ethanol.
I’m using this type of fuel filter, changing every year (not expensive) . Doing it in the last 17 years. Never ever had problem with fuel lines or carburetor. Also using Shell V-power and Seafoam of course.




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fish hawk
Posted: Oct 27, 2018 - 06:46 pm


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Now if you are wondering why I’m using Mercury parts when I got Yamaha outboards? It is because some of the parts from Mercury can be used on Yamaha. For example I could use either one of these oil filters on my outboard. Mercury is a little cheaper in price.

Also I heard the lower units of some Mercury is made by Yamaha.


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