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> Reading a spark plug, What do you think.
miro
Posted: Feb 27, 2015 - 10:19 pm


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Slingshot, you would think the guys at the repair shop would have checked all the obvious stuff out while it was in for repairs.Why they would't of replaced the plug just for shits and giggles is beyond me. Do you have a self venting cap or manual on the gas tank ? it could be freezing up on you during transportation ,or plugged up all together.I get this problem all the time running small engines on the construction site. Slack the cap right off and give her a pull ,if it runs properly change it. Good Luck..


P.S.. It was nice meeting you on the lake yesterday and thanks again for the lift ,that was real kind of you.Hope we can hit the lake together real soon pm me any time.

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Steelhunter
Posted: Feb 27, 2015 - 10:30 pm


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I never have to worry about my auger giving me trouble my father in law works on small motors so everytime i have problems he just tunes it up and good to go again

Steelhunter

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sdcaller
Posted: Feb 27, 2015 - 11:02 pm


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QUOTE (Kerry @ Feb 27, 2015 - 10:04 pm)
I had a problem with mine last year.I would prime it put it on full choke and pull it several times and would not start.Then I would pull it over choke open with the throttle pressed and it would finally go.What I determined at least in my case was when I primed it it was soaking the filter thereby actually overchoking the motor.
I was out the other day primed it a few pumps and pulled it a couple times and away it went- I forgot to put the choke on.After about an hour I went to cut new holes and tried the same procedure, it fired then stalled and that is when I put the choke on.Fired up fine after that.
Kerry

As I said earlier, I just got a new Eskimo and it works fine.

Note the starting instructions in the Manual tell you to prime with the choke off and then put the choke on after priming.

SDC

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Slingshot
Posted: Feb 28, 2015 - 11:16 am


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Thanks guys for all the advice, I certainly appreciate it.

My plan is to bring it in the house, when the wife is not home, change the plug and giver a whirl and see what happens. I like the idea of starting it warm, take it outside and run the you know what outta it with the intention of cleaning it out. If that don't work, well, for the short time left, manual auger it is!

Thanks again guys, I really appreciate it. Good luck for the last couple of weeks. Mind you, I suspect people will be ice fishing for Perch till maybe June….lol.

Thanks again.

Cheers

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Grandpa Jim
Posted: Feb 28, 2015 - 12:03 pm


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If you still have problems after changing the plug, check your spark. In a dark location (so you can easily see the spark) remove the plug and position it in contact with the engine (away from the spark plug orifice to avoid detonating gas). Securely attach the plug wire and pull the starting cord. Watch the spark colouration very closely. If the spark is a blue colour, you're good. An orange or yellow spark is the opposite. If not blue, find a good small engine mechanic.
It's possible you were flooding the engine if you were overpriming with the choke on. Every small engine tends to have it's own procedure for easy starting and they can be a bit finicky if you haven't determined just what that is for your auger. I'd suggest trying to start it outside in temperatures in the range you would normally encounter on the lake. Once you hit the proper procedure all should work well.
I'd highly recommend you follow earlier suggestions about the use of high octane gas with no ethanol. Buy and use the best 2 cycle oil available. I have great respect for Amsoil and Stihl oil. I add a small quantity of SeaFoam in my gas mixture at the beginning of the season. The amount of gas and oil you use for the ice fishing season is minimal so don't skimp on the quality. Following the suggestions outlined, my Jiffy is well over 30 years old and still runs great without ever touching the carb.
Change the plug as well and I hope everything works out well.

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Andy14
Posted: Feb 28, 2015 - 02:15 pm


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Do not warm up the engine of an Ice auger....Ever.
Prime3-6 times with no choke, then turn choke on...1 pull then choke off then one or two quick pulls...That's when it is running in fine order.
Anyway... check the chamber where the air filter sits, there might be a hair line crack that is very hard to see with just a quick glimpse.....That happened to me on mine then had my buddy fix it up and was good as new.
I cannot stress enough not to ever warm up your engines unless it's -25 out then only warm it up for about 5-7 seconds without throtle otherwise once she turns over, full throttle always.

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hammerincameron
Posted: Feb 28, 2015 - 02:23 pm


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So I guess you can't go fishing unless it's -25?

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fishmagnet
Posted: Feb 28, 2015 - 02:32 pm


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Slingshot have you contacted eskimo customer service yet i hear they go out of there way to get problems solved..explain how you only buy eskimo products and you are very disappointed in the auger ,see what they can do for you even if they can give you a credit for a new auger or something to keep you a loyal Eskimo customer.
You never know until you ask i should know my wife is a expert at complaining....

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hammerincameron
Posted: Feb 28, 2015 - 02:42 pm


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I'll take it off your hands for $75. Seen them brand new some where ( I think it was sail ) for $249.

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Nuclear
Posted: Feb 28, 2015 - 03:08 pm


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Try to put a dash of gas line antifreeze sometimes we forget what kind of temperature we have on the lake with winds might make a difference good luck

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gaston
Posted: Feb 28, 2015 - 04:44 pm


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it sounds like a carb issue. Get some sea foam and follow the instructions. works great.

even high test gas contains ethenol. if it separates it screws everything. shoot the sea foam right into the intake of the carb. it should clean it out. add see foam to your gas tank.

did it to my 1997 big bear 350, rough idling etc. runs like a champ now and idles perfectly.

try it and let us know.

"G"

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Fishing Rod
Posted: Feb 28, 2015 - 05:45 pm


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9 times out of 10 it fuel.
Do you runs fuel stabilizer through it in and fog it at the end of the year?
If not everything can have a bit of a coating of crap inside it. Restricts gas flow.
Carb cleaning should help.
Makes for a temperamental sob.
Anyway. there will be a trick to starting it. You just need to figure out the procedure.
If it isn't starting, do something different. Pull the plug. Is it wet or dry? this will tell you that you have to much choke or not enough etc.
Yes cold makes a difference for both of you!

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fivecoolcats
Posted: Feb 28, 2015 - 06:01 pm


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QUOTE (gaston @ Feb 28, 2015 - 04:44 pm)
it sounds like a carb issue. Get some sea foam and follow the instructions. works great.

even high test gas contains ethenol. if it separates it screws everything. shoot the sea foam right into the intake of the carb. it should clean it out. add see foam to your gas tank.

did it to my 1997 big bear 350, rough idling etc. runs like a champ now and idles perfectly.

try it and let us know.

"G"

X100,000,000 on Sea Foam..... There should be a law against running 2 stroke's without running SeaFoam mixed with the gas.

Todays gas is deadly on carbs, and unless your running premium to avoid the ethanol then your should always run Seafoam through the tank a few times a season.

At the end of the season run an extra strong batch of seafaom/gas mix, FOG THE MOTOR and you will never have a starting issue.

That plug looks fine and is not causing your problems. Your carb is fouled.


I DON'T understand the rationale about not warming up an ice auger??....Any 2 stroke motor of mine will always get warmed up well beyond 3 mins before I use it...(my sleds warm up 10 mins in extreme cold)..Having said that I warm it up with throttle so that it doesn't get a lean mixture and detonate.

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Grandpa Jim
Posted: Feb 28, 2015 - 08:28 pm


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From Gaston: even high test gas contains ethanol. Only Sunoco premium contains ethanol.

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gaston
Posted: Feb 28, 2015 - 09:05 pm


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Grampa, I thought only shell v power was the only without ethanol on the market.


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