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> leak in my boat, ack!
AlconaKevin
Posted: Jul 14, 2015 - 09:19 am


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So....

Have found a small crack in the bow of my hull, center weld just above the curve.

Is a small crack right at the angle and I don't see any rust so I am thinking an old "bump" has finally caught up to me.

i am wonder what would be a good way to fix?

Welding is very difficult obviously so was hoping for some other suggestions/experiences.
A buddy was telling me about liquid weld(?) and also some tape type stuff, like you use to fix a muffler.

My concern is the location is that it will be exposed to rubbing/friction as it is right near the second roller.

Thanks in advance eh....

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bentauger
Posted: Jul 14, 2015 - 09:52 am


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If the crack is somewhat accessible, drill a small hole at both ends, this "should" stop if from spreading.

JB weld, is good. Just keep an eye on it , if it gets worked loose.

A real weld would be best, but may not be feasible. and should be welded on both sides.

You said by your second roller!!!

Rollers are hard on boats being trailered, I converted my trailer to bunkers on my old boat, it had a similar "crack" issue that was amplified by the rollers.

There are many other sealants that will/may work, depends how much flex you get in the repair area, on how long it will last.

Good luck.

BA

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AlconaKevin
Posted: Jul 14, 2015 - 10:23 am


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Thanks,

I am a bunk trailer, I mean the roller that the boat rides on up near the front of the trailer. Not the one it rests on by the crank.

i have been looking around and am thinking that either JB Water or Marine Weld is the way to go.
The water weld is like a putty so using it would be quite a bit easier as the leak is on the very bottom of the hull.
Drill a couple of small holes, clean and sand then apply JB.

It is in one of the reinforced strips so I have a good thickness to work with.

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mukluk
Posted: Jul 14, 2015 - 04:32 pm


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I found this product on the internet; but have never used it. Sells for around $30.00. Might be the answer.

http://durafix.com/

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Fisherman
Posted: Jul 14, 2015 - 04:45 pm


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QUOTE (mukluk @ Jul 14, 2015 - 04:32 pm)
I found this product on the internet; but have never used it. Sells for around $30.00. Might be the answer.

http://durafix.com/

Yup, that stuff works! The only thing, you must follow instructions to the letter, the area must be scuffed with either sandpaper or a stainless bristle brush, not iron or brass, then it won't work. And don't hold the torch in one spot either, small circular motion.

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fishmagnet
Posted: Jul 14, 2015 - 04:49 pm


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I have heard of people patching with marine opoxy and also people have rhino sprayed the interior with good results.. I would do both if the price was reasonable and only if it was just a plain tinny!!

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Bayliner
Posted: Jul 14, 2015 - 07:39 pm


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If the leak is where you say, I'd get a keel guard. Fixed forever and stronger than original.

Google it.

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AlconaKevin
Posted: Jul 15, 2015 - 05:19 am


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QUOTE (Bayliner @ Jul 14, 2015 - 07:39 pm)
If the leak is where you say, I'd get a keel guard. Fixed forever and stronger than original.

Google it.

This looks very promising indeed.

I am thinking it will also help address the issue of the crack returning.

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remi
Posted: Jul 15, 2015 - 07:27 am


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I don't think keel guard is made for aluminum boats, check the website.

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AlconaKevin
Posted: Jul 15, 2015 - 09:47 am


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DOH!

you are correct.....back to research

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Fisherman
Posted: Jul 15, 2015 - 12:50 pm


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QUOTE (AlconaKevin @ Jul 15, 2015 - 09:47 am)
DOH!

you are correct.....back to research

This one will for quite a few models. Keel Shield

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AlconaKevin
Posted: Jul 15, 2015 - 01:03 pm


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QUOTE (Fisherman @ Jul 15, 2015 - 12:50 pm)
QUOTE (AlconaKevin @ Jul 15, 2015 - 09:47 am)
DOH!

you are correct.....back to research

This one will for quite a few models. Keel Shield

I saw that but it states that it is NOT to be used to repair a crack but to protect.

I have a feeling I am going to use JB Waterweld, it seems like it will do the trick when used properly.

i may look into this product after the repair as added protection though.

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bentauger
Posted: Jul 15, 2015 - 01:30 pm


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Yes I think you want to fix the leak 1st KEvin, see how it holds, then maybe slap a piece of plastic over it....looks like the 3M adhesive is the secret

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AlconaKevin
Posted: Jul 15, 2015 - 03:05 pm


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Man I HATE trying to decide important things...i just over think it.



Is down to either JB waterweld or G/Flex.

I am thinking the keel area does not get too much stress flex and stuff but rather is bumped by trailering the boat.

If the crack was not on the keel, like on the bottom I would be more inclined towards the G/Flex. I am thinking that the JB will hold it and remain strong and then the 3M would address the little flexing.

Note, I plan to drill the little holes to end the spread of the crack, I was looking and it is actually about 9" long. I can feel it slightly, but the area leaking is only about 2" max.

sigh...lol

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phoney
Posted: Jul 16, 2015 - 08:47 am


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I had a similar problem and used a product called GLUVIT and it did the job. It is expensive though. You paint it on .

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