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> Older Cannon 10A downrigger repair solution
rainbow
Posted: Aug 23, 2015 - 07:08 pm


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Hey guys...I'm just hoping to help somebody out who may be having the same problem. I found the solution.
I bought an older Cannon from a guy in NF and he was upfront with me that it was a hurting unit. The motor was really slow, did not sound too good, and struggled with 8 pound balls. I got some 5 pounders so I figured I would give it a shot. I pulled the motor out right away after hearing it because it sounded that bad. I took it to Oakville Alternator and Starter at 427 Speers Rd, Oakville, ON L6K 3S8 (905) 827-1331. These guys cleaned it up from rust and crud inside and I reinstalled it. No joy. It was totally intermittent. It would work for a few seconds and quit...and then start up again..and quit. I talked to the guys and they gave me my money back but I am a stubborn old bastard so I kept searching for an answer. I found out that there is a "bi-metal switch" in the bottom of these and when it craps out (and it did frequently) the motor turns on and off at random. Mmmmmm. Took it back to the shop and they agreed to open in back up and bypass the switch just to see what would happen. Got it back from them Thursday and reassembled the downrigger. Tested it out yesterday off Bronte. NOW it works like a dream. That 5 pounder was going up and down like a hookers pants on payday. (can I say that on here??? LOL) Problem solved. Since these motors are no longer available from Cannon, I wonder how many got thrown out because of this defective switch????
The whole thing cost me $100 to repair but compared to the cost of a new rigger...cheap. If you need any work done like this, these guys at Oakville Alternator treated me right and I would use them again in a heart beat.
HERE Fishy fishy!!!

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bluenote
Posted: Aug 23, 2015 - 07:59 pm


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Interesting read.

Why would there be a bit metal switch inside? For what purpose - and you jumper it out and works good? Is it a thermal overload switch?

As to your expression - first time I've heard that one . . .

Thanks

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rainbow
Posted: Aug 23, 2015 - 09:32 pm


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It is a thermal overload switch but these were motors originally made for electric windows on cars and adapted by Cannon for downriggers. If you have the breaker working... all should be good. I have a 10 amp breaker in the unit and a 10 amp inline fuse. If anything goes wrong, the worst that could happen in a popped fuse. (I hope!)

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