Mora swede bore with drill.

I tried my set-up on some ice today. I found that the auger has a real tendency to 'wander' or skate rather than biting it. I was warned about the danger of this beforehand so I was being cautious with it but it did spin a bit too close to my toes for comfort. These augers have no 'center point' or whatever to prevent this skating. Apparently many augers do have a point to help them get started.

Has anybody else had that prob and , if so, what did you do about it?

thx

The last time I checked, some of the augers such as k-drill helps. Notice the centre point (bit):

and:

There are also those people who do DYI: Add a center point/bit to a Mora Swede Bore drill (notice the hole at the centre of the blade/drill assembly:

Thx, James, but mine doesn't have a hole like that.

They tell you the ones without the point can wander and the nice thing with the kdrill you can open old holes vs without.

I have the mora on my clam plate and drill. Yes, it does wonder/walk on you more than the curved blade style. I find it helps if you put a little pressure down on it when starting the hole. Start at a very low speed and make sure the auger is level. once it bites the ice then you can put it to full throttle.


The mora is the type of auger that requires downward pressure for it to cut and shave ice. Unlike the The fin Bore III augers (with the off set handles), they are designed to cut and pull down on it's own.

hope that helps.

Start slow Harold. And angle slightly away from you. It can skate a bit but just be aware. Once you get the hang it f it , it will be fine. Even with that rigid! And what we ice were u on? Was it lake joe?

Dave

I have exact same set up as yours : 6” Swede bore with drill on a clam plate and I did cut my boot a few years ago exactly like that because it spun on the ice.
Finbore III or my other auger Nils Master are much better augers with spherical blades.
I still use the Swede bore though and what I do is put the drill in low gear and learned to press the clam plate lever very gently and as was said before - point the auger slightly away from you.

Thx for the tips, guys. I will try some of those 'tricks'. Hoping to go tomorrow>

Rather than a new set of blades get a finnbore next time much better ... had a sweedbore first that eventually bent and wouldnt cut anymore after it grabbed the ice weird.

Bought the Ion XC5 last year. My best auger ever owned.

I just bought new auger and the drill attachment. If not in a big hurry and don't drill say over 10 wholes will my black and decker 18 V do it? I have 2 batteries?

With your Black and Decker 18V drill? How much torque does this drill have (in in-lbs)? If it is less than 500 inch-lbs, then forget it. Many people use say a Milwaukee M18 drill with up to 725 in-lbs (drill Model 2604-20) or even up to 1,200 in-lbs torque (drill Model 2704-20 or 2804-20) to power their auger, for example. Or a drill from say DeWalt with similar torque.... I seriously doubt your Black and Decker one would be enough.

Knuguy....I wonder if you got a wood drill that would fit in between the blades and have a welder centre and weld this wood bit on the Mora auger.......shorten the bit first.