Ice shack advice, Sheeting

I am building a shack and would like to keep it on a budget light and strong. I have some of it built but I can't decide on the sheeting.
I like tin but the cost is a little high, 3/8 ply is heavy and not cheap, and I ruled out corrugated plastic because it won't last long. Any other ideas out there or advice?
I Have a topic on my hut build in the DIY section. It just doesn't get many views.

Thanks.

Heavy tarp stretched tight and stapled then secured with another board along the corners.

Could last a few seasons if well taken care of.

I consider the idea of using a insulated tarp but It could be a hassle due to the design. Its going to be a fold down hut when its done so a tarp would mean put up and take down on the ice at start and end of season. A 6 x 24 tarp would cover the most of it. the roof will be a 1/12 pitch, If it was a flat level roof a tarp would be a tad easier to fit.
It would be nice to have minimal extra work at set up and take down. I may still wrap it with a tarp...

It is cedar 1.5x1.75 studs so I am a tad worried the wind may knock it apart.

Thanks for the idea mykola I'm considering it.

What about acrylic Bath panels? Super light and strong enough.

Might be able to use these for walls and then steel for the roof just to make sure the roof is strong enough.

I priced out tin. I would need 2 50 foot rolls at 150 a piece. 3/8 ply would be 40 a sheet and I would need 6, I may be able to get it for 25 a sheet. Acrylic bath panels is a cool idea but its 100 a sheet.

I'm sitting at about 500 so far between cedar, pressure treated, insulation and hinges nails screws and GRKs.

I could splurge but I really don't want too. I really need to get a fishfinder so if I splurge now I won't get the fish finder. This season is looking like a late one. I normally fish around lake Muskoka and the bay I fish is typically last to freeze.

I am strongly considering the insulated tarp and strapping to screw it to the frame. I would screw 1x3 together to make a l profile for the corners and cut out and strap around windows. I would leave the side with the door bare and use plywood. That way I could possibly upgrade in the future.

Anyone have any horror stories of what not to do?
Or any advice from experience what is tried and tested to last any nudges to make the investment to plywood for strength or tin for light wieght.

I built a hut 30 plus years ago and I used aluminum printer plates. These are some how used in the printing industry (offset printing). They had printing on one side and nothing on the other. They were about 3 x 4. Not sure if they are available today or not. Got mine from a fellow who worked at a printing company.

IFH did the hut last a long time ? The rolls I'm looking at are 18 inches wide by 50 ft length. I'm thinking about starting at the bottom going up with a min 1-2 inch positive overlap.

Thanks for your comment. All the info I can gather is helping me.

1/4 inch 4x8 mohogany underlay is lighter and cheaper than 3/8 but needs to be painted like plywood. works great solid as a rock, no flapping in the wind etc. Or take it to a marina they can shrinkwrap the whole thing, doors included for say 50-100 bucks.

Yes the aluminum lasted tho had some wood rot over the years from leaks. The aluminum I used was 0.012 inch thick. I folded the edges over to add thickens at the sides. Between over lapping sheets I put some sealant/caulking. Hope this helps

I still have not decided yet on the full picture. On one side wall I started using 3/8 ply. On the other side (both gable walls) i started with 3/4 ply because the tiny walls beside the door had little strength.
I'm leaning towards tin for the longer walls. The weight is starting to add up.

I also built the roof. Its 3/8 ply to avoid the weight of the 1/2 inch PT i was going to use.
I will copy this and post it in DIY.


Let's hope the weather turns and gets COLD!

Roof is not attached yet just clamped. I want to put the tin or sheeting on first.

I used aluminum from old print shops like was mentioned earlier. It was a long time ago and a friend’s family owned the print shop. There was some printing etched on the metal but it faded and we painted it later anyway. Just overlapped the seams and ran a bead of caulk along the joint before fastening. Worked great for years and was light.
Not sure if print shops still use that method of printing and discard the metal sheets after. If so ask around and you may be able to scrounge some up.
Nothing beats a good permanent hut for comfort and warmth if you don’t need to move around much.

Hut looks great so far man.